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Thread: Marydawg, the AP

  1. #61
    I finally got my ass in gear this afternoon. Installed a new shower valve. Then set the metal pan. I leveled the pan on a 1.5" bed of mortar after stapling down some tar paper and metal mesh to the sub floor. It won't be going anywhere or squeaking once it sets up.

    Gonna at least pick up the wallboard today. Then get it closed back up.Name:  20210716_165925 (1).jpg
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  2. #62
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    I finally got my ass in gear this afternoon. Installed a new shower valve. Then set the metal pan. I leveled the pan on a 1.5" bed of mortar after stapling down some tar paper and metal mesh to the sub floor. It won't be going anywhere or squeaking once it sets up.

    Gonna at least pick up the wallboard today. Then get it closed back up.
    Nicely Done.
    Did you RedGard or Waterproof the Mortar Bed?
    I see so many conflicting views on that topic.
    What are you planning for the walls?
    Hardie Board or something else?
    Acrylic or Tile?
    Are you going to waterproof them completely?

    I water tested my new drain pipes with 10 gallons of water each.
    No Leaks... Yet.
    My mind is completely at war with itself.
    I literally have an Angel and a Devil on each shoulder telling me that I can or can't do this shit lol.
    I'm pretty sure if I tile the walls I will not be able to get them plumb, level and square.
    They make it look easy on youtube but I know its a bitch to complete.

    How high did you cut your shower drain pipe?
    Level with the subfloor?
    Last edited by monet; 07-16-2021 at 05:34 PM.

  3. #63
    I seen this guy put Hardie Board over the subfloor and put the two mortar beds directly on top of that.
    But that subfloor isn't plywood.
    3:59 of the video below.
    Those are planks!
    Can you really put cement board on the base of the shower floor??

    I'd like to follow what this guy is doing but I worry about the weight of using bricks for a curb.
    I estimate the shower bed to be around 300 pounds with tile.
    Add in a Brick Curb and Tiled Walls.
    This Fucking thing is going to come crashing down lol.
    Of course, I'm told the floor can hold over 2200 pounds but I can't prove that.
    I tested it and it held just over a 1000 pounds with easy and that is with holes in the subflooring.
    I'm gonna lug up 2000 pounds when I close in the subfloor and test it again.
    I don't understand how plywood and a few floor joists are that strong.
    The book says 40lbs per square foot but that information doesn't translate to actual weight on a floor.

    Last edited by monet; 07-16-2021 at 05:58 PM.

  4. #64
    It seems I can try to do some math.
    Measure all the joists, beams and spacing and plug the numbers into this computer thingy and it will tell me how much the floor can hold... I guess.

  5. #65
    Originally Posted by monet View Post
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    I finally got my ass in gear this afternoon. Installed a new shower valve. Then set the metal pan. I leveled the pan on a 1.5" bed of mortar after stapling down some tar paper and metal mesh to the sub floor. It won't be going anywhere or squeaking once it sets up.

    Gonna at least pick up the wallboard today. Then get it closed back up.
    Nicely Done.
    Did you RedGard or Waterproof the Mortar Bed?
    I see so many conflicting views on that topic.
    What are you planning for the walls?
    Hardie Board or something else?
    Acrylic or Tile?
    Are you going to waterproof them completely?

    I water tested my new drain pipes with 10 gallons of water each.
    No Leaks... Yet.
    My mind is completely at war with itself.
    I literally have an Angel and a Devil on each shoulder telling me that I can or can't do this shit lol.
    I'm pretty sure if I tile the walls I will not be able to get them plumb, level and square.
    They make it look easy on youtube but I know its a bitch to complete.

    How high did you cut your shower drain pipe?
    Level with the subfloor?
    I set it into a bed of mortar only to ensure that it would sit solid for life. Don't need to waterproof a solid pan.

    I used a 4 1/4" oatey no caulk drain. So I just trimmed the pipe with an inside pipe cutter to the height needed for the compression ring and gasket.

    I went with a preformed pan so I wouldn't have to deal with all the things you are wondering about.

    I will use regular 5/8 wallboard plumbing it on the studs with drywall shim material. Then I will finish it flat. After that I will install Kerri on the walls and use Kerdi fix where it meets the pan. Then the walls will be ready for tile.

    When you are talking about floating walls and building mortar bases that is a whole different animal. I did that stuff when I was younger. Too old for that now. If you haven't done it before you are right to fear it.

    That is why I suggested you look at the shower systems by Schluter. Take advantage of the new technology. Done properly those are as good as anything if you need to do something custom sized.

    But if you can get away with doing a solid preformed base then that is actually the best thing out of all solutions. I don't like acrylic bases. I'm metal porcelain enameled guy or some sort of solid surface like cultured marble or polymers like Corian.

  6. #66
    Originally Posted by monet View Post
    I seen this guy put Hardie Board over the subfloor and put the two mortar beds directly on top of that.
    But that subfloor isn't plywood.
    3:59 of the video below.
    Those are planks!
    Can you really put cement board on the base of the shower floor??

    I'd like to follow what this guy is doing but I worry about the weight of using bricks for a curb.
    I estimate the shower bed to be around 300 pounds with tile.
    Add in a Brick Curb and Tiled Walls.
    This Fucking thing is going to come crashing down lol.
    Of course, I'm told the floor can hold over 2200 pounds but I can't prove that.
    I tested it and it held just over a 1000 pounds with easy and that is with holes in the subflooring.
    I'm gonna lug up 2000 pounds when I close in the subfloor and test it again.
    I don't understand how plywood and a few floor joists are that strong.
    The book says 40lbs per square foot but that information doesn't translate to actual weight on a floor.

    That 40 pounds is live load. Meaning throughout the entire structure. You are not going to overload anything in the 12
    -15 sft area of your shower.

    Bump your wall out and get a 32x54 shower pan. Install it and move on.

  7. #67
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    Bump your wall out and get a 32x54 shower pan. Install it and move on.
    Thanks for the replies.
    54 inches in length just might work.
    The pre-drilled drain location might be the issue.
    If I measured this correctly I am 17 1/2 inches from the side and would be 9 inches from the new bumped out wall.
    I'm certainly in favor of a shower pan if I can figure out how to line it up properly.
    I was planning on just building a pre slope and sloped base on top of that so I could just build to the drain.
    Shits complicated.
    I'm close to calling in the Calvary.
    Youtube DIY Shows put a spell on me.
    Demolition went pretty easy and fast only lasting a day or two.
    After that, things started to compound and get more complicated.
    I get a kick out of it though.
    I think its funny.
    My wife doesn't give me any grief but I don't think she she's the humor.

  8. #68
    The bathrooms, in this house, when built were with enameled steel tubs and with some sort of thick acrylic walls.
    I'm impressed how good the walls work only glued to green board and sealed with caulk on the seams.
    No signs of water ever breaching those walls or seams.
    And mold can't grow on that material and soap scum can't build up on it.
    It doesn't look very good as it looks like plastic but it works really well IMO.
    Seems like an easier process that works compared to all the steps associated with tile.
    Anyways... got to get my mind right.
    All this because of a toilet flange break/leak that caused the plywood to rot and grow mold around the plywood under the toilet
    According to the water department we had a leak for 3 days losing ten gallons an hour on average.
    Took 3 days to notice as the water started to drip out of an air vent.
    Seems like a lot of rot and damage for 3 to 4 days but I hear it doesn't take long for wood/plywood to rot.
    Fucked up my whole summer.
    Thankfully, we caught it somewhat early.
    Last edited by monet; 07-16-2021 at 07:39 PM.

  9. #69
    Originally Posted by monet View Post
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    Bump your wall out and get a 32x54 shower pan. Install it and move on.
    Thanks for the replies.
    54 inches in length just might work.
    The pre-drilled drain location might be the issue.
    If I measured this correctly I am 17 1/2 inches from the side and would be 9 inches from the new bumped out wall.
    I'm certainly in favor of a shower pan if I can figure out how to line it up properly.
    I was planning on just building a pre slope and sloped base on top of that so I could just build to the drain.
    Shits complicated.
    I'm close to calling in the Calvary.
    Youtube DIY Shows put a spell on me.
    Demolition went pretty easy and fast only lasting a day or two.
    After that, things started to compound and get more complicated.
    I get a kick out of it though.
    I think its funny.
    My wife doesn't give me any grief but I don't think she she's the humor.
    32x54 is a standard shower pan size. Definitely looks like you could bump that wall out leaving those pipes alone and make it work. You are probably going to have to move the drain again though. But that's easy as you already know. Plus you get to huff more glue. Maybe try painting on a black face with it too.

  10. #70
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    32x54 is a standard shower pan size. Definitely looks like you could bump that wall out leaving those pipes alone and make it work. You are probably going to have to move the drain again though. But that's easy as you already know. Plus you get to huff more glue. Maybe try painting on a black face with it too.
    That stuff is no joke.
    You think you can just take a little sniff to smell it but when you do, you realize how Fucking Strong that Shit is lol.
    I don't even like it... I just do it as some sort of a truth or dare sort of thing with myself.
    Seems to peel right off after drying to your skin and washing a little bit so Black Face would work for some BLM Protesting.

    I don't really want to move that drain again lol.
    However, that pipe is easier to deal with as you can pressure cut the 1 1/2 inch pipe.
    Cutting that 3 inch pipe wasn't as much fun with a hacksaw but I probably had the wrong blade.
    I tried to use the oscillating tool but I didn't like how it would start to melt the plastic.

    If I relocate that shower drain again I got to get it right this time.
    Not much more pipe to work with before I get to the elbow.

    I had more vision and energy last night working on this but today is more of a Mind Fuck Day.
    I'm losing my Faith.

  11. #71
    Originally Posted by monet View Post
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    32x54 is a standard shower pan size. Definitely looks like you could bump that wall out leaving those pipes alone and make it work. You are probably going to have to move the drain again though. But that's easy as you already know. Plus you get to huff more glue. Maybe try painting on a black face with it too.
    That stuff is no joke.
    You think you can just take a little sniff to smell it but when you do, you realize how Fucking Strong that Shit is lol.
    I don't even like it... I just do it as some sort of a truth or dare sort of thing with myself.
    Seems to peel right off after drying to your skin and washing a little bit so Black Face would work for some BLM Protesting.

    I don't really want to move that drain again lol.
    However, that pipe is easier to deal with as you can pressure cut the 1 1/2 inch pipe.
    Cutting that 3 inch pipe wasn't as much fun with a hacksaw but I probably had the wrong blade.
    I tried to use the oscillating tool but I didn't like how it would start to melt the plastic.

    If I relocate that shower drain again I got to get it right this time.
    Not much more pipe to work with before I get to the elbow.

    I had more vision and energy last night working on this but today is more of a Mind Fuck Day.
    I'm losing my Faith.
    Keep the faith. You probably need a larger toothed blade for the oscillating saw if you are melting the plastic.

    Keep the faith....lol

  12. #72
    You might want to look at the Swan stone shower bases. They are easily ordered at Lowe's or Home Depot.

  13. #73
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    You might want to look at the Swan stone shower bases. They are easily ordered at Lowe's or Home Depot.
    I was looking at that and I came across custom made Corian Shower Bases.
    Seems like a decent idea and they can mold exact dimensions with the drain.
    Might even be able to have them mold it to go over the vents like the tub did and I wouldn't have to bump the wall out if that is the case.
    Seems they can mold a curb and extended sides all around.
    Order the stupid Corian walls to go with it.
    Glue them on, epoxy or caulk the seams and be done with it.
    Just spitballin here.
    We all know I'm gonna crack and call professional remodelers.
    Get on the 10 week waiting list.

  14. #74
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post

    Keep the faith. You probably need a larger toothed blade for the oscillating saw if you are melting the plastic.

    Keep the faith....lol
    lol... you just want me to keep going for your own personal amusement
    You just want to see how long I can continue on deluding myself.
    As if I can actually rebuild a bathroom.
    What the Fuck was I thinking!?
    At least I got all these nice new tools, power tools, levels, squares and measuring tapes, gloves, N95 Masks, safety glasses...etc. etc.
    Fuck You Bob Villa and This Old House!!

    I mean how much further am I going to take it?
    I bought some 3/4 inch subflooring the other day that was 4ftx8ft.
    Had to have them cut it in half as its just too heavy and awkward for one person.
    I'm looking at 8 foot 2x4s thinking I'm going to build a fucking wall lol!?

    I was recently looking at 7 foot levels that I need to check the walls lol.
    I actually cut into the downstairs ceiling, subfloors and into the ABS plumbing and relocated it.
    blackhole is right...
    I really am an Idiot!!
    Last edited by monet; 07-16-2021 at 09:01 PM.

  15. #75
    Keystone just sees the plumbing pictures and scoffs.
    He doesn't get the humor in watching me spiral out of control and crack.
    Nothing more entertaining than following along some ego driven maniac, know it all and watching him cry like a little girl as he has to hire professionals because he isn't man enough.
    I do this shit all the time.
    Years and Years ago I decided I was going to build a Pool and Jacuzzi all by myself.
    I had a couple of books that told me it was easy and I could do it.
    After I built the foundation and walls I cracked and covered them up with dirt.
    I was out there for a few days in 110 degree heat jackhammering the whole backyard lol.
    What do you expect from an 80s kid?
    We all think life is some sort of a game.
    I blame Atari, Nintendo, Kool-Aid and Kraft Macaroni & Cheese.
    Last edited by monet; 07-16-2021 at 09:15 PM.

  16. #76
    Originally Posted by monet View Post
    Keystone just sees the plumbing pictures and scoffs.
    He doesn't get the humor in watching me spiral out of control and crack.
    Nothing more entertaining than following along some ego driven maniac, know it all and watching him cry like a little girl as he has to hire professionals because he isn't man enough.
    I do this shit all the time.
    Years and Years ago I decided I was going to build a Pool and Jacuzzi all by myself.
    I had a couple of books that told me it was easy and I could do it.
    After I built the foundation and walls I cracked and covered them up with dirt.
    I was out there for a few days in 110 degree heat jackhammering the whole backyard lol.
    What do you expect from an 80s kid?
    We all think life is some sort of a game.
    I blame Atari, Nintendo, Kool-Aid and Kraft Macaroni & Cheese.
    Now you're sounding like a hiker 2/3 thru an Appalachian Trail hike. Yet you're just getting started.

    I enjoy the humor.

  17. #77
    Got home after dinner around 5. Put the wallboard up. Probably skim it out tomorrow and waterproof the shower sometime next week.

    Kind of going to be busy in the casinos. So will see how it goes.
    Name:  20210717_210501 (1).jpg
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  18. #78
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    Got home after dinner around 5. Put the wallboard up. Probably skim it out tomorrow and waterproof the shower sometime next week.

    Kind of going to be busy in the casinos. So will see how it goes.
    Looks Good!
    I'm 95% sure that you are going to finish before I do.
    I wouldn't doubt that I have a demolished bathroom for months on end, while I hem and haw.

    You put the backer board all the way down past the shower flange huh?
    So you plan to tile right up against the edge of that lip?
    Silicone or Caulk the Gap?
    Are you going to use an Epoxy or Cement Grout?
    Last edited by monet; 07-18-2021 at 03:16 PM.

  19. #79
    They make building a mud pan look easy on this inter-machine-thingy.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  20. #80
    Originally Posted by monet View Post
    Originally Posted by MaxPen View Post
    Got home after dinner around 5. Put the wallboard up. Probably skim it out tomorrow and waterproof the shower sometime next week.

    Kind of going to be busy in the casinos. So will see how it goes.
    Looks Good!
    I'm 95% sure that you are going to finish before I do.
    I wouldn't doubt that I have a demolished bathroom for months on end, while I hem and haw.

    You put the backer board all the way down past the shower flange huh?
    So you plan to tile right up against the edge of that lip?
    Silicone or Caulk the Gap?
    Are you going to use an Epoxy or Cement Grout?
    The wall board stops at top of flange. When do the waterproof membrane I will start with a strip that comes down to the top rail of the pan. The tile will have an 1/8" gap at the rail. That will get caulked with a silicone matched to the grout. Epoxy Grout takes to long to fuck with. I will just use a regular sealed grout.

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